Sniper Country Duty Roster collective wisdom


Gunsmithing - general comments:


I've seen a number of firing pin kits for bolt action rifles that say they reduce lock time (IE Blue Press has a titanium pin/Wolf spring combo for the 700). Has anyone ever tried one of these? Comments, sugestions, & beer appreciated.

I seem to remember something from racing about titanium not being particularly good in impact strength.

Jim <hampshire@mediacen.navy.mil>
Ft. Meade, MD USA - Monday, December 07, 1998 at 23:45:47 (EST) 


Jim:
I was at the range the Saturday after Thanksgiving and started talking with a guy who put a titanium firing pin in his Rem 700 and was testing it out with his favorite load. He said that with the factory firing pin this load averaged .510" groups. After putting in the titanium pin and firing three 5 shot groups he got an average of .585". He said that he didn't get much sleep the night before so he couldn't be sure if the larger groups were caused by the new firing pin or by him being tired. When the range opens up again next April he's going to test it again. I also recall reading somewhere about titanium being hard but brittle.

Kodiak <rvl@inil.com>
USA - Tuesday, December 08, 1998 at 13:26:45 (EST) 


As an aside:
One time I ordered a hundred ¼"X 28 hex head screws for Remington action screws. These hex head screws are normally heat treated and in this process (I think) became banana shaped from warpage. Perhaps I just got a bad batch. This warpage was not enough for the normal eye to see, but if you put them into a lathe chuck it became readily apparent. To correct these matters, I put a piece of waste stock in the chuck and drill and tap a hole for ¼"X28 to a depth of about ½". Screw the "banana" down tight, and then cut the bottom of the head for the desired 82° angle, and perhaps take a little off of the shank too. This at least put the bottom of the head true with the threads, or darn close. When I say "darn" I mean 99.9% better. I do realize that a tap may not closely follow the centerline of the hole, but this is the best that I can do. Does your gunsmith check for screw run-out? You certainly wouldn't want him to use the screws that I had, that is if you wanted a non-stressed action. Food for thought.

Ron N. <rcn8@accnorwalk.com>
USA - Tuesday, December 22, 1998 at 00:59:03 (EST) 


Ref. buttplates: I have an adjustable buttplate from Cabella's on my favourite target rifle. The is a waffle grid on one side and a pattern of nubs on the other piece. They are held together with a captive screw and nut.

I modified it for the top to tip left off vertical. I made an aluminum backer plate that screws to the buttstock. The buttplate screws onto this plate. Beside the top mounting hole, I drilled and threaded more holes in an arc. The angled buttplate nestles nicely in the shoulder pocket in prone.

Terry
Terry Warner <twarner@sk.sympatico.ca>
Canada - Monday, December 28, 1998 at 21:14:04 (EST) 


A lot has been said about the dissassembly of the M-24's bolt, and what a bear it is. All it takes is the lace of one of the boots you are wearing and a dime or a dogtag, and it is apart most tic. Of course, weak laces mean you wind up on your ass just as fast.

Ed <Ed_Engler@softhome.net>
CP Greaves, ROK - Tuesday, December 29, 1998 at 09:34:40 (EST) 


Ed! I totally agree. Taking the Remington bolt down ain't ALL that tough. Also, you can get a complete firing pin assembly for about $25 and toss it in your kit.

Scott <xring@voicenet.com>
USA - Tuesday, December 29, 1998 at 13:32:45 (EST) 


I wonder if they could build an action that we could all agree on. To start a "FRIENDLY" debate, what features would be desirable in a "Dream Sniper Rifle" . Lets build and imaginary rifle and see what we come up with. We could take a pole and would take the "Most" popular items and go with them to come up with the final draft for the rifle. Everything is open for debate, just justify you answer, lets even pick the caliber to go with. Now that ought to start some arguments!!(HA,HA) GOD I LOVE THIS SIGHT!!
Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Tuesday, December 29, 1998 at 20:06:06 (EST) 

Sniper rifle wish list:
As long as we can fantasize about such things, all I really need to build the perfect rifle is a receiver with no screw holes for scope bases and other nonsense. I want a sidemount that is part of the receiver itself, that places the scope 1.75 inches above the bore and the rings are machined so that you can place an optically centered scope within the rings and clamp it down, it will be on at 500 yards. Is that too much to ask? If the receiver barrel threads are cut on c/l instead of with a tap, I think it would be possible.
Steve <nato@bright.net>
S.C.D.H., Ohio USA - Tuesday, December 29, 1998 at 23:58:55 (EST) 

Best tactical action? The one you practice with each and every moment of spare time you have. All the rest are just eye candy. Seriously though, I do not think there is a "best" out there. Lot of good choices. All have faults! EVERY single one of them. Pick the one you like and the one you feel will not fail at the drop of a pin (then go prove it to yourself by NOT babying it). BR rifles and hunting rifles need not apply for real field use.
Extreme accuracy ain't everything.
Extreme reliability is.

Scott <xring>
USA - Wednesday, December 30, 1998 at 12:57:57 (EST) 


...but just to get the screaming going...hee hee...why in the heck would controlled round feeding make for a better sniper rifle? Hee hee...that'll git 'em! Torf, the gauntlet is tossed! :-)
Scott <xring@voicenet.com>
USA - Tuesday, December 29, 1998 at 15:47:57 (EST) 

"why in the heck would controlled round feeding make for a better sniper rifle?" The extractor can be changed is a few seconds with no tools, by far the easiest of any design. If you never break an extractor due to a bad round or something it's no big deal. the firing pin assy can be removed from the bolt in a few seconds with no tools. If you never operate in dirty or cold conditions it's no big deal. The reciever is flat on the bottom and offers a bit more bedding surface, purpose built rifles like the AI or TRG are also like this. The design of the bolt, and the coned breach allows, in my experience, much smoother cycling than a push feed. several people have noted that a certain push feed will jam up if the rounds are not loaded in just so, I have never had that problem with a model 70 or 03'. The manual type ejector allows the operator to drop the fired brass right at the side of the rifle without having to move the non shooting hand up to the reciever allowing less movement of the shooter and of the brass. The other advantage of the manual blade ejector is that it doesn't contact the chambered round and affect cartridge alignment, the case is allowed to find center. I am not saying that a CRF action is more accurate than a PF, from what I have seen given the same treatment they show comparable accuracy. So why would a dang old push feed make for a better sniper rifle?

Rich <dick2@clarkston.com>
WA USA - Thursday, December 31, 1998 at 17:38:29 (EST) 


Been doing alot of reading about rifle for the last 5 years.
One question I have never seen answered is, When storing your rifle for a period of time, is it best to releave the pressure on the firing pin or will it not hurt it to stay cocked. (bolt action)
David Moody <CntDracula@aol.com>
USA - Friday, January 08, 1999 at 16:29:47 (EST) 
On easing springs with weapons. Always been a habit of mine to drop the hammer when storing a weapon to preserve spring strength. We teach it with Remington based weapons systems. It is also one of the last steps of "inspection arms" in drill and cerimony for this reason. (Had a DI once tell me it was to make sure the weapon wasn't loaded. Jeeeze!)

Gooch
gooch <gooch@stormmountain.com>
USA - Friday, January 08, 1999 at 18:53:49 (EST) 


This may be a say again, Greetings, I am trying to build a decent system on a Rem 700 ADL chambered in 30-06 ( Ive been following the debate 308 v. 30-06 my operational experiance was with the M21 system, we were not given a choice, and it did exactly what our instructors said it would do, range moa etc.) this being said and just for something to do...can any one recomend an AFFORDABLE barrel manufacturer. I just got one of Maj. Plaster's stocks from choate an it is totally high speed. I am satisfied with the craftsmanship and still cant get over the price!!! p.s. am I wasting my time with this action or is it possible, for a reasonable amount of funds, ie. less than bying a prefab system, to end up with a solid shooting weapon. Thank you for your time and comments
D. Terry <dbsan2hotmail.com>
USA - Wednesday, January 20, 1999 at 21:54:31 (ZULU) 
D.Terry,
Your action should be fine to build a rifle off of,you may however want to consider making it a BDL so you can drop your rounds in case of a jam in the magazine. As far a barrels go I would not try to go cheap because you will get what you pay for!! The price for a top quality barrel is not that much more than the "Cheaper" barrels. A stainless is about the same as a crome moly when you figure you will have to pay to have it blued so go stainless. I would recommened Hart,Schneider, Shilen or Lilja there are a lot of good barrels but the important choice is the gunsmith. Find one who builds guns for a living not one who fixes guns and occasionally rebarrels a gun. Just my thought on this for what it's worth.
Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Thursday, January 21, 1999 at 14:23:22 (ZULU) 

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